HRC Honda 450R Power-Up Kit Install Instructions

	HRC Honda 450R Power-Up Kit Install Instructions
1.	Remove the seat and front & rear plastic

	Figure 1 - Plastic Removed
2.	Remove the gas tank
	Ensure the gas is turned off Remove the screw holding the petcock and remove the lever and fuel mark plate Remove the hose from the bottom of the tank to the carburetor, remove the 2 bolts securing the tank, the two tank straps, and lift the tank off
3.	Remove the Protector, Tank Heat Shield(the plastic piece below the tank) see Figure 2
	Figure 2 - Protector, Tank Heat Shield
4.	Loosen the hose clamp holding the white plastic snorkel and install the HRC snorkel and retighten
5.	Remove the airbox lid by unsnapping the 4 metal retainers and the two bails and install the new HRC lid. Installation of the mud flap is optional.
	Figure 3 - HRC Lid & Snorkle Installed

	Figure 4- HRC Lid, Snorkle, and Optional Mud Flap
6.	Remove the 3 bolts holding the muffler end cap on and slide out the core and old gasket. Install the new gasket and HRC end cap and tighten the bolts to
7.	Disconnect the 3-way breather joint from the crank case, air box, valve cover and replace with the HRC joint.
	Figure 5 - 3-way Breather Joint
8.	Remove the 4 screws on top of carburetor and remove the lid NOTE - Installation of the needle and main jet does not require removal of the carburetor and only the loosening of hose clamps and rotation of the carburetor 90 degrees to install the main jet.
	Figure 6 - Screw Removal

	Figure 7 - Screws & Lid Removed
9.	Remove the two screws holding the arm set to the throttle valve.
10.	Remove the Needle Jet. (A magnet or needle nose pliers may help) and install the HRC Needle with the retainer on the 3rd clip.
	Figure 8 - Needle Removed
11.	Remove the 17mm bolt on the bottom of the carburetor.
	Figure 9 - 17mm Bolt Removal
12.	Remove the main Jet with a 6mm socket and install the HRC Jet and the 17mm bolt.
	Figure 10 - HRC Main Jet (185) Installed
13.	Turn the Air/Fuel mixture screw (Pilot Screw) all the way in and turn it back out 2.5 turns.
	Figure 11 - Air/Fuel Pilot Screw (Red Arrow)
14.	Remove the Spark Plug boot and the Spark Plug.
15.	Remove the 3 bolts holding the valve cover on and remove the valve cover.
16.	Remove the Crankshaft Hole Cap to set the motor to Top Dead Center (TDC). TDC is achieved when the two marks align
	Figure 12 - Remove Bolt to Align Marks to TDC
17.	Once you have achieved TDC (you can do this by moving your R forward in gear) you need to secure the cam chain to the sprocket with two large Zip Ties
	Figure 13 - Timing Chain Zip Tied
18.	Remove the two Allen head bolts holding the sprocket to the camshaft. I found this to be very difficult as they are secured with lock-tite. Get a good pair of leather gloves and one person needs to grab the sprocket and hold on for dear life. Person number two needs to insert your Allen wrench and tap it with a hammer to break them free
	Figure 14 - Cam Sprocket Allen Bolts
19.	Cam Chain Tensioner…there are different thoughts on removal of this. Here is what I did and I found it very simple. Take the end bolt out of the tensioner and insert a small flat head screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until it stops. All of the tension should be removed from the chain and you can slide the sprocket off. Do not let go of the screwdriver! Ease it back turn by turn until it is free…it is spring loaded
	Figure 15 - Insert flat head and turn clockwise to release tension
20.	Remove the four bolts holding the cam assembly. NOTE: At this point I would recommend you check the clearance on your valves. I wish I would have checked mine before I removed the cam. It is not necessary but I wish I would have known.
	Figure 16 - Remove these 4 bolts
21.	Steadily lift of the cam assembly taking care not to drop any of the shims into the motor. The assembly is positioned with bosses just work it back and forth gently and lift up at the same time and it will come off. If any of the shims come off make sure you place them back on the correct valve.
	Figure 17 - Shims
22	Remove the decompressor bolt from the cam assembly. I used a pair of vise grips but some have used a vice. The vice grip method worked wonderfully.
	Figure 18 - Remove this bolt (decompressor )

	Figure 19 - Here are the vise grips I used (two person job)
23.	Remove the snap ring and the cam shaft will slide out.
	Figure 20 - Remove this snap ring and the cam will slide out
24.	Slide the HRC Cam in and reinstall the snap ring. Apply Lock-Tite and install the decompressor bolt. Torque decompressor bolt to: 18 lbf-ft. NOTE: I used Lock-Tite #243. It is an oil-resistant medium strength formula (blue) readily available at the parts store. I consulted Lock-Tite and my dealer on which product to use.
25.	Reinstall the cam assembly and torque the four bolts to 10 lbf-ft.
26.	Use a feeler gauge and check your valve clearances. Exhaust: .28 mm +/- .03 mm Intake: .16 mm +/- .03 mm
	Figure 21 - Checking one of the Intake valves

	Figure 22 - Checking one of the Exhaust valves
	After you check all the valves you may need to make shim changes. The easiest way to explain this is find the correct thickness of gauge where it will slide in an out with just a little tension or pressure on the gauge. All of the shims are numbered according to how thick they are. It sort of works backwards, if you can properly fit a .220 mm (exhaust valve example) gauge in then you are too tight even though it is a smaller number then the required .28 tolerance. Therefore, you add a smaller numbered shim to increase the amount of space so the larger .28 gauge will fit. In the above example if a .220 fits then you probably need to drop .06 on the shim. So if the factory shim is a 215 then you need to get a 209. It is not an exact science because I was still .02 off from dead on .28 mm. I worked mine a while with different shims and all the valves ended up dead on.
27.	Check the clearance on the decompressor arm: Decompressor: .25 mm +/- .02 mm.
	Figure 23 - Valve Clearance
28.	Mix your Molybdenum and motor oil in a 50/50 solution and apply to the top off the shims, lobes on the cam, rocker arm and lifters. I used Moly Paste, my Honda dealer did not have anything else, but it worked great.
	Figure 24 - Moly/ Motor Oil Solution
29.	Ensure you are at TDC, turn the screwdriver in the camshaft tensioner fully clockwise and reinstall the cam sprocket and chain. Ensure the alignment marks line up, (there are two marks on the sprocket and two on the camshaft holder) apply Lock-Tite and torque the sprocket bolts to: 14 lbf-ft. You can now remove the Zip Ties
	Figure 25 - One of the cam gear marks (Another on the right side)

	Figure 26 - Alignment mark on the cam assembly (Another on the left side)
30.	Now begin reassembling your 450R. Torque Specifications for Re-assembly: Head cover torque: 7 lbf-ft. Spark Plug: 17 lbf-ft. Crankshaft Hole Cap: 11 lbf-ft.